Clutch replacement

I've been playing around with the springs in the OEM discs, so it turns out I have changed my clutch more than 7 times, the latest I got down to just 4 hours. That's with just jack stands, small tranny jack, and finally learning what to do when.

Ill start under the hood by doing these in this order:

Tools: 12mm,10mm,14mm combo wrenches, 10mm,12mm,14mm sockets, 14mm flex socket, 24"12" extensions, ratchet wrenches, a long handle makes it real easy to loosen the tensioner. +/ - screwdrivers, torque wrenches, clutch alignment tool. Flashlight.

1. Remove air box, 10mm heads / Battery terminals 10mm stubby wrench
2. Accessory belt, 14mm head on a breaker bar for the tensioner
3. Heat shield on manifold, 12mm heads (I say heads because the threads are stated in manual)
4. Battery heat shield, 10mm Last bolt just loosens
5. Alternator top bolt out, loosen lower, 14mm
6. A/C pump bolts loosen 2x 14mm on top, remove forward most top bolt, disconnect wire from under car later
7. Disconnect two sensor plugs on head by the firewall
8. Disconnect vacuum hose (the one shown in manual at rear of head ((suction valve))
9. Mark steering joint, and remove 10mm bolt at front (other bolt loosened later)Make sure steering wheel is locked straight.
10. Swing alternator out a bit to get to upper starter bolt, 14mm remove but leave bolt resting on alternator -- YOU WILL WANT A 14mm FLEX SOCKET . . . + about 24" of extension, I recommend using duct tape so you wont drop the socket amid all the hoses and wires. You get at this bolt from an angle, and directly between the throttle body and alternator
11. Disconnect power steering connectors, one big and one small (electrical)
12. Loosen exhaust manifold bolts at head 12mm (Keep Snug)
13. Remove 14mm bolt at rear of intake manifold, wiring harness support bar
14. Raise car, I recommend at least 24" clearance at body jack points. I managed to get here in 18 min.
    

When under car you will want these

10mm combo wrench, I use a gearwrench

12mm,14mm,17mm combo wrenches

12mm deep,12mm,14mm, 17mm socket, 6mm hex socket (short as possible)

24" and 12" extensions you'll need at least 36" for the top tranny bolts

Small crook needle nose pliers for removing plastic snap in wire holders

Ratchets, 3/8" and 1/2" drive with 1/2 to 3/8 adapter

Impact wrench with 17mm, 19mm deep sockets or short extension.

1. Remove splash shield
2. Remove front engine bump stop (I just leave mine off now)
3. Loosen rear steering joint bolt and slide joint back to disconnect, 10mm
4. Disconnect A/C wire and remove remaining bolts from pump (3)
5. Remove cable ground wire to engine block
6. Remove 14mm bolt on lower wiring harness support bar
7. Remove clutch slave cyl. 12mm open end wrench
8. Disconnect 02 sensor connectors, and tranny wiring harness
9. Remove cat. conv. use the deep 12mm socket and box end 12 wrench for the front two, 14mm combo for the rear
10. Loosen 3 lower driveshaft bolts(on each end), 6mm hex, if you cant get the wrench in there, remember the shaft slides on cv joints. Parking brake should be on.
11. Remove 14mm bolts on exhaust manifold support, remove manifold. When your're up top again to remove the manifold nuts, release the parking brake, and remove the shifter knob/lever. 10mm heads
12. Remove 19mm subframe bolts (The middle ones that come out)
13. Turn driveshaft 180*
14. Remove bolts that connect shifter box to tranny tunnel, 10mm
15. Loosen lower tranny to engine bolts, 14mm/17mm
16. Put the brake back on, then loosen the other 3 driveshaft bolts (each end) Mark driveshaft if it is not yet, and remove.

Now its time to support the subframe, I just use a 24" 2x4 on a jack placed under the front beam and the oil pan.

when supported, back out the front subframe bolts 3" (19mm) and the rear subframe bolts 3" (17mm)

When the subframe comes down a bit you can see exactly how for to back out the bolts by looking at the gap in the threads.

With the subframe lowered and supported by the bolts you can now get to the top tranny bolts. (17mm)

Support the tranny and remove the 3 tranny crossbeam bolts at rear, remember to pull out the release fork so the tranny will come all the way off the engine.

For the clutch you will need 12 point sockets, 10mm for the pressure plate, and 17mm for the flywheel.

I'll undo the PP bolts just by hand in a crisscross pattern, they aren't that tight. For the flywheel bolts, I'll zip out those with a low power impact wrench so I don't need a flywheel holder. If you have a Toda flywheel, you can use a 14mm deep socket through those holes to hold the FW. If not you can use a big screwdriver or prybar to hold the starter teeth on the FW. When putting the tranny back in, remember to have to alignment pins in place, and that perfect alignment between tranny/engine is just as important as a clutch alignment tool. It will slip right on

When putting the cat back in, it will be good to leave the exhaust man. loose, sometimes it's a tight fit with aftermarket cat-back systems.

The plastic white ring around the inner shift boot comes out a special way, you will see little arrows that point to where the barbs are. Take a small but long flat head screwdriver and insert just inside the ring through the hole in the rubber boot while lifting on the boot at the same time.

I have found that the clutch change has a negligible effect on the front end alignment.

Remember this is my quick way of pulling my tranny, I may have left something out, so double check with the manual before starting. So there you have it, and I'm going out in a few to do it again . . .

OH yeah, none of my clutch discs have exhibited any undue wear, just a bit of scorching - so you may be better off with an OEM disc and a heavy duty PP. Im working on the noise thing, with interesting results.