2000 Honda S2000 - The Car Connection

2000 Honda S2000 - The Car Connection

Interesting.... I didn't know that the S2000's seats are actually Recaros!

Honda S2000 Continues to Define Racing-Inspired Performance for 2007

Hooray, it looks like Honda will continue production of the S2000 into 2007 after all!

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Widely considered the quintessential roadster-style sports car, the S2000 is the performance icon for the Honda brand and combines uncompromising racetrack-ready performance with everyday usability.

Introduced in 1999, the S2000 rewards driving enthusiasts with a potent 237 horsepower, 2.2-liter, 16-valve DOHC VTEC(R) 4-cylinder engine and a precise, short throw 6-speed manual transmission, along with tenacious handling and a perfect 50/50 weight balance. Continuing with significant improvements made to the 2006 model, the 2007 Honda S2000 includes an electronic Drive-by-Wire (DBW) Throttle System(TM), Vehicle Stability Assist (VSA(R)), Maintenance Minder(TM) system, standard headrest speakers, an outside temperature gauge and an engine start button.

"The Honda S2000 is a true performance vehicle that provides customers with an exciting experience behind the wheel," said John Mendel, senior vice president of American Honda Motor Co., Inc. "Since the S2000 is a car designed by enthusiasts for enthusiasts, it can easily satisfy daily driving needs without sacrificing track-worthy performance."

The S2000's renowned high-revving, 2.2-liter, 16-valve DOHC VTEC 4-cylinder engine remains the pinnacle of naturally aspirated performance technology, delivering 237 horsepower at 7,800 rpm and 162 lb-ft. of torque at 6,800 rpm. Perfectly complimenting the engine's output characteristics is a compact, longitudinally-mounted, close-ratio 6-speed manual transmission that features a direct linkage for precise shifting and quick throws.

Read the full article >>

Five two-seaters for blurring the fence posts and mussing your hair

The Blow Dryers - Comparison Tests - Car and Driver - August 2003

BY PATRICK BEDARD, PHOTOGRAPHY BY AARON KILEY
August 2003
Maybe your ship came in. Or your divorce came through. Or your final house payment went out. Or your last kid finished college. Or your stock portfolio still hasn't slipped beneath the waves.

Or, what the heck, maybe you're just embarrassed by those untarnished credit ratings.

May we tempt you with a sports car?

A sports car is a celebratory choice, the auto equivalent of champagne. Nobody needs either one; no vitamins in either and no essential nutrients. You go with them purely because they make you feel good.

As Aristotle once observed, "Fun is fun to have."

Since you're looking to celebrate (play along, we fill these pages for food), how about something in the semiscandalous range? Something that will make your friends arch their eyebrows and say, "How does he afford that?"

More flexible, better balanced, still demonic

Honda S2000 - Short Take Road Tests - Car and Driver - November 2003

BY BARRY WINFIELD, PHOTOGRAPHY BY DAVID DEWHURST
November 2003

The 2003 version of the Honda S2000 recently won a comparison test (“The Blow Dryers,” August 2003) among such leading lights as the Porsche Boxster, BMW Z4, Nissan 350Z Touring, and Audi TT roadster. In case you hadn’t noticed, some of those cars are newer than the Honda is.

We have more bad news for those guys. There's a revised S2000 coming their way as a 2004 model, and it features a ton of improvements designed to neutralize the few criticisms we had about the old car.

Chief among these are changes to the engine to make the S2000 more flexible at low- and midrange revs without dulling the tumultuous rush at motorcycle-engine speeds that is this car's trademark. Honda did this by increasing the stroke by 6.7 millimeters, thereby bumping displacement from 1997 to 2157cc.

Both VTEC cam profiles were reconfigured, the compression ratio was raised a 10th (to 11.1:1), and the redline was dropped from a strident 8900 rpm to a merely maniacal 8000 rpm. The redline illuminates as a shifter light on the tidy new instrument cluster and then allows another 200 rpm before shutting off the fun.

Forums -> soft top speed sensor bypass

How to mod your S2000 to allow soft top to be lowered by moving

Forums -> soft top speed sensor bypass

S2KCA Forum - S2000 Fact Sheet

Finally, a complete specification sheet of the S2000! But it's still US-spec

S2KCA Forum - S2000 Fact Sheet

The one for the Gulf versions read as follows:



ENGINE
2000-2003 F20C
2.0L - 16v VTEC(highest output per liter of any normally aspirated motor sold)
11:1 Compression ratio
87mm bore x 84mm stroke
9000 RPM REDLINE
240HP @ 8300 RPM
153 FT-LBS @ 7500RPM
Weight 326 lbs
Rated as a Low Emission Vehicle by the EPA
Lightweight forged aluminum pistons (know as "slipper" pistons)
Cast-aluminum oil pan
Block Material - Aluminum Alloy w/Fiber-Reinforced (FRM) Cylinder Walls
Cylinder-Head Material - Aluminum Alloy
Lightweight, MIM (Metal-Injection Molded), Sintered-Steel Rocker Arms, Low-Fricition Roller-Bearing Cam
Followers, Compact, 2-Stage Cam-Drive with Silent Chain, Scissors Gears and Fully Automatic Tensioner
Fuel Induction System - Multi-Point Programmed Fuel Injection (PGM-FI)
Emission Control - Low Back Pressure, Metal-Honeycomb Catalytic Converter
Electric-Motor-Drive, Multi-Port Secondary Air-Asist Injection System

POWERTRAIN
6-Speed Transmissions Gear Ratios:
Primary Gear Reduction - 1.208
1st gear - 3.133
2nd gear - 2.045 --- Est speed @ 8000rpm ~ 52mph
3rd gear - 1.481
4th gear - 1.161
5th gear - 0.942
6th gear - 0.763
Reverse - 2.800
Final Drive Ratio - 4.100


CHASSIS
High X-Bone Monocoque Frame
Weight - 2835lbs with a 49/51 weight balance
A reinforced windshield A-pillar to act as a forward roll bar
Dual roll bars behind the seats
Honda did it's own in house roll over testing of the S2000, since the US goverment did not test roll over.


STABILIZER BAR
Front - 26.5 mm.
Rear - 25.4 mm


SUSPENSION
Front Suspension - Independent In-Wheel Double Wishbone & Coil Springs & Shock Absorbers Gas- Pressurized Mono-Tube
Rear Suspension - Independent In-Wheel Double Wishbone & Coil Springs &
Shock Absorbers Gas- Pressurized Mono-Tube w/ External Resevoir


STEERING
Electric Power Rack-and-Pinion
Steering Wheel Turns (lock-to-lock) - 2.6
Steering Ratio - 14.9
Turning Diameter (ft., at wheel center) - 35.4


WHEELS & TIRES
Front - 17" x 7.0" Aluminum Alloy - Bridgestone RE 050 P215/ 45 R17
Rear - 17" x 8.5" Aluminum Alloy - Bridgestone RE 050 P245/ 40 R17


BRAKES
Power-Assisted 4-Wheel Disc Brakes w/ ABS
Ventilated Front Disc Brakes (diameter) 11.8 in.
Solid Rear Disc Brakes (diameter) 11.1 in.


CAPACITIES
Oil, Engine & Filter (liters/qt.) - 5.6 / 5.1
Transmission (qt./liter) - 1.56 / 1.48
Cooling System (liters/qt.) - 7.6 / 7.1
Fuel Tank (gal. / liter) - 13.2 / 50


FUEL
Recommended Fuel - Premium Unleaded
EPA Mileage, City / Highway (mpg) - TBA
Fuel Tank (gal. / liter) - 13.2 / 50


EXTERIOR DIMENSIONS
Wheelbase (in.) - 94.5
Track, Front (in.) - 57.9
Track, Rear (in.) - 59.4
Length (in.) - 162.2
Width (in.) - 68.9
Height (in.) - 50.0
Minimum Ground Clearance
Non-Load (in.) - 5.1
Full-Load (in.) - 4.2


INTERIOR & TRUNK DIMENSIONS
Headroom (in.) - 34.6
Legroom (in.) - 44.3
Hiproom (in.) - 49.8
Shoulder Room (in.) - 50.7
EPA Passenger Volume (cu. ft.) - 45.1
EPA Cargo Volume (cu. ft.) - 5.00

Honda Acura Engine Codes Guide

Which Honda engine are you running?

Honda Acura Engine Codes Guide

Kazunori Yamauchi (Creator of Gran Turismo Video Game) and His Real AP1 Race Car

From this...



To this...

S2ki Gallery Forum

My favourite, the Opera S2000, as first seen in Gran Turismo 4

The S2000 Galleries

My first source of S2000 wallpapers when I started

Clutch replacement

I've been playing around with the springs in the OEM discs, so it turns out I have changed my clutch more than 7 times, the latest I got down to just 4 hours. That's with just jack stands, small tranny jack, and finally learning what to do when.

Ill start under the hood by doing these in this order:

Tools: 12mm,10mm,14mm combo wrenches, 10mm,12mm,14mm sockets, 14mm flex socket, 24"12" extensions, ratchet wrenches, a long handle makes it real easy to loosen the tensioner. +/ - screwdrivers, torque wrenches, clutch alignment tool. Flashlight.

1. Remove air box, 10mm heads / Battery terminals 10mm stubby wrench
2. Accessory belt, 14mm head on a breaker bar for the tensioner
3. Heat shield on manifold, 12mm heads (I say heads because the threads are stated in manual)
4. Battery heat shield, 10mm Last bolt just loosens
5. Alternator top bolt out, loosen lower, 14mm
6. A/C pump bolts loosen 2x 14mm on top, remove forward most top bolt, disconnect wire from under car later
7. Disconnect two sensor plugs on head by the firewall
8. Disconnect vacuum hose (the one shown in manual at rear of head ((suction valve))
9. Mark steering joint, and remove 10mm bolt at front (other bolt loosened later)Make sure steering wheel is locked straight.
10. Swing alternator out a bit to get to upper starter bolt, 14mm remove but leave bolt resting on alternator -- YOU WILL WANT A 14mm FLEX SOCKET . . . + about 24" of extension, I recommend using duct tape so you wont drop the socket amid all the hoses and wires. You get at this bolt from an angle, and directly between the throttle body and alternator
11. Disconnect power steering connectors, one big and one small (electrical)
12. Loosen exhaust manifold bolts at head 12mm (Keep Snug)
13. Remove 14mm bolt at rear of intake manifold, wiring harness support bar
14. Raise car, I recommend at least 24" clearance at body jack points. I managed to get here in 18 min.
    

When under car you will want these

10mm combo wrench, I use a gearwrench

12mm,14mm,17mm combo wrenches

12mm deep,12mm,14mm, 17mm socket, 6mm hex socket (short as possible)

24" and 12" extensions you'll need at least 36" for the top tranny bolts

Small crook needle nose pliers for removing plastic snap in wire holders

Ratchets, 3/8" and 1/2" drive with 1/2 to 3/8 adapter

Impact wrench with 17mm, 19mm deep sockets or short extension.

1. Remove splash shield
2. Remove front engine bump stop (I just leave mine off now)
3. Loosen rear steering joint bolt and slide joint back to disconnect, 10mm
4. Disconnect A/C wire and remove remaining bolts from pump (3)
5. Remove cable ground wire to engine block
6. Remove 14mm bolt on lower wiring harness support bar
7. Remove clutch slave cyl. 12mm open end wrench
8. Disconnect 02 sensor connectors, and tranny wiring harness
9. Remove cat. conv. use the deep 12mm socket and box end 12 wrench for the front two, 14mm combo for the rear
10. Loosen 3 lower driveshaft bolts(on each end), 6mm hex, if you cant get the wrench in there, remember the shaft slides on cv joints. Parking brake should be on.
11. Remove 14mm bolts on exhaust manifold support, remove manifold. When your're up top again to remove the manifold nuts, release the parking brake, and remove the shifter knob/lever. 10mm heads
12. Remove 19mm subframe bolts (The middle ones that come out)
13. Turn driveshaft 180*
14. Remove bolts that connect shifter box to tranny tunnel, 10mm
15. Loosen lower tranny to engine bolts, 14mm/17mm
16. Put the brake back on, then loosen the other 3 driveshaft bolts (each end) Mark driveshaft if it is not yet, and remove.

Now its time to support the subframe, I just use a 24" 2x4 on a jack placed under the front beam and the oil pan.

when supported, back out the front subframe bolts 3" (19mm) and the rear subframe bolts 3" (17mm)

When the subframe comes down a bit you can see exactly how for to back out the bolts by looking at the gap in the threads.

With the subframe lowered and supported by the bolts you can now get to the top tranny bolts. (17mm)

Support the tranny and remove the 3 tranny crossbeam bolts at rear, remember to pull out the release fork so the tranny will come all the way off the engine.

For the clutch you will need 12 point sockets, 10mm for the pressure plate, and 17mm for the flywheel.

I'll undo the PP bolts just by hand in a crisscross pattern, they aren't that tight. For the flywheel bolts, I'll zip out those with a low power impact wrench so I don't need a flywheel holder. If you have a Toda flywheel, you can use a 14mm deep socket through those holes to hold the FW. If not you can use a big screwdriver or prybar to hold the starter teeth on the FW. When putting the tranny back in, remember to have to alignment pins in place, and that perfect alignment between tranny/engine is just as important as a clutch alignment tool. It will slip right on

When putting the cat back in, it will be good to leave the exhaust man. loose, sometimes it's a tight fit with aftermarket cat-back systems.

The plastic white ring around the inner shift boot comes out a special way, you will see little arrows that point to where the barbs are. Take a small but long flat head screwdriver and insert just inside the ring through the hole in the rubber boot while lifting on the boot at the same time.

I have found that the clutch change has a negligible effect on the front end alignment.

Remember this is my quick way of pulling my tranny, I may have left something out, so double check with the manual before starting. So there you have it, and I'm going out in a few to do it again . . .

OH yeah, none of my clutch discs have exhibited any undue wear, just a bit of scorching - so you may be better off with an OEM disc and a heavy duty PP. Im working on the noise thing, with interesting results.